DePuy'8 Popular Poultry and Pet Stock Book No. 4 



ITHE RABBIT 




I 



low TO SELECT, BREED AND MANAGE THE RABBIT 
FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 



I 



CLARENCE C. DE PUY, Publisher, SYRACUSE, N. Y. 



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...THE RABBIT... 



k 



HOW TO SELECT, BREED and MANAGE 

THE RABBIT FOR PLEASURE 

OR PROFIT. 

BY 

Wi^'N. RICHARDSON 



SYRACUSE, M. Y. 
CLARENCE C. DePUY, 

PUBLISHER 

1916 



Copyrighted 1894, by W. N. Richardson 

Copyrighted 1896, by Clarence C. De Puy 

Copyrighted 1899, by Clarence C. De Puy 

Copyrighted 1900, by Clarence C. De Puy 

Copyrighted 1901, by Clarence C. De Puy 

Copyrighted 1906, by Clarence C. De Puy 

Copyrighted 1916, by Clarence C. De Puy 



©CU4;}1259 

fflAY 29 1916 



INTRODUCTION 



D 



HE demand for a hand book on the Rabbit, explaining 
in a practical manner the mysteries of rabbit culture, 
^ treating especially on the care and management of the 
Belgian Hare, is the only excuse for perpetuating this volume 
on the indulgent public. 

In the main the writer's actual experience is given ; while for 
information requiring greater experience and familiarity with 
the Rabbit, such eminent authorities as Messrs. Watmough, 
Mason and Knight, of the land of fanciers, "England," are 
quoted. 

If, by following the plans recommended, the privations and 
sufferings of an animal so > noble, so worthy of good care and 
attention, are lessened, the knowledge of their increased com- 
fort will amply repay the trouble involved, and the mission 
undertaken will be crowned with success. Read this book 
carefully, follow the directions plainly given, and the result 
cannot be otherwise than successful. 



THE AUTHOR. 



1 



^mm:^ 




•■A-' ' 



THE RABBIT, 



RABBITS FOR PROFIT 



BrWVI OST people in this country think that the rabbit is a 
■ A "aw useless pet, and being unacquainted with their habits 
yi^j and possibilities, condemn them, as unworthy of the 
care and attention they so justly deserve. 

The Rabbit question has its bright side. The formerly 
neglected rabbit is now furnishing both pleasure and profit 
when managed intelligently. 

I find that nine of ten fanciers who give up, do so becauv? 
ihey cannot keep their pets in proper health. Th?re is a great 
deal in feeding, housing and mating. 

The conclusion is, that fanciers spc'nd t(jo much money in 
feeding their Rabbits, giving them too much to eat, and the 
consequence is, that they either become diseased or there is a 
tremendous waste of food. ,As a rule they are kept in too small 
quarters, thereby generating disease for want of pure air. I 
am pleased to say that many men in the fancy have seen their 
mistakes and are now making the Rabbit a success financially. 

There are Rabbits of all colors, sizes and conditions from 
which to select an ideal, which must possess many good qual- 
ities, among which must be a good appearance, large size, pro- 
lificacy, and hardiness ; they must mature quickly, be exempt 
from disease and vermin, finally furnishing a delicacy for the 
table at a cost not exceeding their more popular rivals, poultry. 



the; rabbit 
THE RABBITRY 




NE great essential to success is proper quarters for the 
stock. This building is called the rabbitry and is as 
easily constructed as an ordinary hennery and, for 
number of occupants to be considered, at a much less 
expense. The model rabbitry will afford protection from 
moisture and storm, space for exercise and separation of the 
breeders, and all important will be ventilation, for during the 
warm months sickness will be sure to follow any lack of pure, 
fresh air; plenty of windows, wide open, a large ventilator 
through the roof, all tend to keep the place cool and free from 
unpleasant odors; secure a tight roof and a dry floor preferably 
of cement; bricks absorb too much moisture and render the 
rabbitry very damp in cold weather ; a good board floor is quite 
acceptable if cement is not to be had ; regarding the hutches, 
there can be no mistake that the larger the better. 

A breeding hutch should be not less than six feet long, two 
feet wide, and twenty inches high, partioning off about twenty 
inches of one end of the nesting room ; this apartment should be 
dark, with an entrance six inches wide at the front and extend- 
ing from the bottom to the top of the hutch, thereby ventilating 
the apartment. A door eight or ten inches wide of the same 
height furnished with a suitable catch for the front, so as to 
admit a whitewash brush easily. The front of the remaining 
forty inches should have a door of one inch mesh wire netting, 
fastened to a framework of seven-eighths by two inch wood, 
this door to be hinged at the end farthest away from the nesting 
apartment ; the one inch mesh netting keeps in the young rabbits 
and keeps out old rats. If the partition between the living and 
nesting apartments is made so as to be easily taken out the hutch 
can be used by the growing brood until large enough to sepa- 



THE RABBIT 7 

rate; always put the netting on the inside of the frame, for often 
bunny will enjoy nibbling at the soft wood generally used. I 
sometimes put a small piece of wood in the hutch for them to 
wear down their teeth by gnawing upon it. A brood buck will 
be perfectly happy in a hutch five»feet long and of course needs 
no nesting apartment. The hutches are best built two feet 
from the floor, leaving that space for growing stock to run 
about in, for if you want those long racy specimens the standard 
demands they must have exercise and plenty of room to grow. 

The food and water dishes must be securely fastened in place 
or the contents will be upset and wasted. 



FEEDING 




HAT will a Rabbit eat? It would be easier to name 
what they would not eat. Hay, oats, corn, wheat, 
peas, barley, and in fact anything that a cow or sheep 
will ; cabbage, beets, turnips, carrots, dandelions, 
milkweed, plantain are a few delicacies; dry bread and milk, 
corn bread, boiled potatoes, raw onions, pea pods, green corn, 
and fresh cut clover for a dessert. What else? Every vege- 
table known to man, except poison ivy and wild parsnip. The 
only thing required is a little judgment in the supply and the 
variety will be very acceptable. 

Always have a supply of good clean hay and oats before 
them, give green stuff once or twice a day and only in quan- 
tities that will be eaten clean; in the summer large quantities 
of green food can be fed ; our pets are delighted with the fresh, 
cool, succulent plants and the grain bill correspondingly de- 
creases. A little care is needed to change from a dry grain diet 
to green food. The young juicy stuff freshly gathered has, on 



the; rabbit 



grain fed animals, a tendency to scour them, but after they 
become accustomed to the diet they can be supplied liberalh 
In giving green food to youngsters care should be especially 
exercised. 

Always bear in mind that fhe fresher the better. Trouble is 
caused by wet stuff being allowed to lie in a heap, thereby 
steaming and sweating until unfit for use, at the same time 
avoid wet green food if fresh and dry food is procurable. Re- 
member that a heap of green stuff in the hutch to be trodden 
upon and covered with filth, is to my idea an unpardonable 
condition of affairs and is often the cause of serious trouble. 
Does nursing should have as much as they can eat, green corn, 
carrots, fresh clover, etc., are excellent milk producers and 
should be fed in conjunction with sound whole oats; give cool 
fresh water twice a day, keeping it always before them. 



lev I 
Iv. f 



WATER FOR RABBITS 



D 



T IS pleasing to know that there is no greater advo- 
cate than myself in favor of giving rabbits water as 
a beverage. I was taught that water was to be used 
only as a remedy for diarrhoea, and, until recently, 
employed it only as such ; but seeing my pets drink their own 
urine, I concluded they were thirsty and desired a drink of 
water. Think of the number of rabbits that are confined in 
generally too small quarters that have to suffer through the hot 
summer months and the feverish hours attendant upon giving 
birth to their young, deprived of the costless yet essential requi- 
site, "a drink of uater/' To the adherents of the no-water 
system, I would advise the reading of this clipping concerning 



THE RABBIT 9 

the rabbit pest in Australia and how their extinction is con- 
ducted : 

"In all but the remote sections, the rabbits are fairly under 
control. Millions of rabbits have been killed b)- fencing in the 
water holes and dams during the dry season, whereby they die 
of thirst, and they lie in piles against the obstructions they so 
frantically and vainly try to climb." — Mr. S. Dickinson, in Sta- 
tion Life, Australia. 

This, I think, should convince the most skeptical that water 
is beneficial, if not indispensable to a rabbit, particularly when 
in captivity and deprived of their natural juicy food. I will 
state that since adopting the water plan I have not had a sick 
rabbit in m}' rabbitry. 



MATING 



UDICIOUS mating is an essential to success in rear- 
ing any stock. Injudicious crossings are often re- 
sorted to, which result in no benefit. 

The most common crosses met with are the Lop, 

the Flemish and the Patagonian ; each cross showing distinc- 
tively its ancestors. The Lop is distinguished by its soft, pen- 
dulous ears; the Flemish by its grey color and large dewlap; 
while the Patagonian gives a rough coat and ears that are slung 
most any way from the proper position. These crosses all give 
excessive weight and are employed for that purpose when 
breeding for market purposes. In mating, whatever is done, 
we ought to bear in mind that we are not making a variety, but 
are trying to excel in the quality of a specimen of the present 
variety. 

When we have excellent specimens from the best blood pro- 
curable, we should use our own stock for mating, utilizing the 
best of each litter, gradually building up a strain fit to win in 



10 TH^ RABBIT 

any company. Having a type in our mind, and mating for 
that type, we can quickly succeed in securing an ideal for the 
market or for exhibition. Many fanciers erroneously place 
all their confidence in the buck. The breeder who insists on 
a good doe with a good buck is the winner. Rather a good doe 
than buck when only one is available ; so go in for a good doe, 
and when you have her do not breed her to, death, nor under- 
feed her when with a litter of young. The greatest difficulty 
is in the selection of colors. Other properties being equal in 
male and female, you must strike a balance — j^ou must take 
light and the dark. Don't mate two of the same shade unless 
they have a certain qualification you do not otherwise possess. 
Try to mate one deficient with one fully developed in that 
deficiency; that Is striking a balance, always taking care not to 
lose what has been obtained by previous matings. 



BREEDING 



OR those who breed for profit there are two courses 
open — one is to keep all the stock until fit for exhi- 
bition, or for sale at fanc)- figures; the other is to 

' market at from four to six months of age. In either 

case the methods are so similar as to not require any special 
explanations. 

The doe has visited the buck and is placed in the hutch 
where she is expected to rear her prospective family, which is 
expected in thirty days from the date of the visit to the buck. 
She must be supplied with an extra amount of food and green 
stuff, and a couple of days before the time is up, give an extra 
quantity of hay and straw to build her nest with ; leave no 
loose dishes or other articles in the hutch, for she may utilize 
them when building. 



THE RABBIT 11 

It should be observed that during the whole period of preg- 
nancy the doe should be kept as quiet as possible. Be sure and 
have a supply of water in the hutch at the time of kindling; 
this is very important and no doubt it prevents many does from 
destroying their young as soon as born. At this time there 
seems to be an unusual thirst, and in their frenzy they destroy 
their young to appease their inordinate thirst. Confirmed kill- 
ers have been completely cured by the observance of this rule. 
Young does sometimes kill their first litter or neglect them, 
but this is not liable to occur again ; do not condemn them too 
soon. 

Do not molest the nest for two or three days, when, after 
carefully removing the doe from the hutch, giving her a run 
on the rabbitry floor, you may examine the young at your 
leisure, removing any dead or extra youngsters you do not care 
to raise — five or six are enough. Do not handle them more 
than is necessary. Give the doe a carrot or some dainty she 
will eat; after an hour or two replace her in the hutch, and she 
will be so anxious to nurse that the intrusion is seldom noticed. 
Feed her as usual, giving an extra quantity of food and green 
stuff, for the young grow fast, and if the doe is not well cared 
for she in turn cannot do justice to her young, and they will 
have slobbers if not sufficiently nourished. 

In two or three weeks the young will be moving about the 
hutch ; from now until weaned is the critical time in their 
existence. With the food and care recommended they will 
prosper. When about two months old they should be taken 
from the doe and allowed to run on the rabbitry floor; the doe 
being started for another family. In cold weather a nest box 
is good for the young litter ; place it in a corner so that in their 
gambols they are not liable to run against it. A large soap box 
with the top taken off and a hole five inches square in the end 
answers very well. In the summer such a nest would cause 
bad ears from the excessive heat. Feed them hay, whole oats, 
stale bread, cooked potatoes, etc., a limited supply of green 



13 THE RABBIT 

food and fresh water every day; bread and milk not sloppy is 
an excellent food for growing youngsters. 

Separate the sexes when taken from the doe, and at four 
months of age separate the males, as they get quarrelsome and 
the weaker ones are completely ruined sometimes in their fights. 
Do not breed a doe under seven montli> of age, and not over 
four times a year ; by this arrangement she will raise strong, 
healthy litters until four or five years of age. For breeding 
purposes an old buck and a young doe beget the largest young. 

THE NURSE DOE 

Is often employed in assisting the more valuable varieties to 
raise all their progeny. The plan followed is simple and effec- 
tive. A Dutch doe makes the best nurse. They are struck 
by an inferior buck at the same time as the more valuable doe, 
so that when the exchange is made the nurse doe's young are 
all destroyed, and she is given half of the young from the other 
doe. Exercise the same care in handling. They are wonder- 
ful milkers, often rearing larger young than the larger doe. 

Help the nursing doe all you can ; she is the prime factor of 
your success, by giving the youngsters a start. Bread and milk 
is excellent food for her and the young. 



THK RABBIT 

KEEP A RECORD 



18 



nHE general plan of the record is simple in detail and 
effectual in its results. The great thing is system, 
which must be vigorously followed or disagreeable 
1 mistakes will occur, generall}' too late for reparation. 

I keep a record book of my rabbitry, in which is recorded 
every incident concerning its occupants. Aside from the en- 
tries from time to time of the ordinary Dr. and Cr. items and 
occurrences of unusual importance, I have a record of every 
animal, its pedigree, mating and its final disposition, and can 
at a glance give any information required. The accompanying 
tabulations are actual copies of my record book in use at the 
present time. 

When a rabbit becomes of an age sufficient for breeding, sh" 
is given a number and a name, the number follows consecj.- 
tively, regardless of sex, and are recorded thus : 



No. 



Do. 



By 
Doe r>uck 



Tmptd 

2 
Iniptd 



Imptd 

2 
lrai>td 



Dec. *92 
Mar. "95 

.lune "9.''> 



Name 



Business 
Cinch 
I'kireka 



liemark,^ 



First World's Fair. Oct. 1898 
Sold ( )ctol)er 1. 189:? 



If a doe, she is placed in a hiitch and a card is attached, 
showing her name and number. The bucks are not recorded 
unless sold or selected for breeding. When the doe has visited 
the buck another card is attached to the hutch, which shows the 
date, number, etc., viz: 



14 



THK RABBIT 



O. 

Doe 18 

Buck 20 

Dec. 5, 1898 

Due.Jan. 3, 1894 

F. 



The large letter F at the bottom of the 
card is the mating check letter in the Record 
Book, and by looking at the mating F the 
comparison is easily made. The records of 
matings are made thus: 

MATINGS 



l.etter 


Doe 


Buck 


Date 


Tested 


Due 


Remarks 


E 
F 
G 


10 
18 
19 


U 

20 
11 


Nov. 27 
Dec. 8 
Jan. 80 


No. 
Dec. 15 
Jan. 80 


■Tan.' 2 
Feb. 14 


Sold December 1 

1 lad nine young, put 5 to nurse 

Sold February 5. 1894 



The pedigrees are arranged thus: 

No. 8. Doe, "Helderberg," Sept. 1892. 
Sire, Imported Rufus x dam, Altomant. 
She by Big Pete x Donovan doe. 
Their parents imported in 1890. 

PREPARING FOR EXHIBITION 

Requires some extra labor, and more exercise for the specimens 
under preparation. The majority of rabbits are shown too 
fat; they must be worked down; they must be groomed daily; 
restrict the green food also; get them in that race-horse shape 
required in the exhibition specimen. 

A buck which has become bunchy, no matter how he excels 
in other points, cannot enter the show with an equal chance 
with the long, slim built animal. The doe which has become 
baggy from excessive breeding is also handicapped. Immature 
specimens should not be shown, as they give the stranger an 
erroneous impression regarding their size, which is hard to 
eradicate. 



THE RABBIT 

DISEASES OF RABBITS 



0LTHOUGH a list, few are encountered by the Amer- 
ican fancier, while the foreign fancier contends with 
many not enumerated here. Our climate and our 
' abundance of everything that a rabbit will eat, to- 
gether with our American fashion of not allowing ourselves 
to be tied down to the lines drawn by our grandfathers, all 
tend to make life much more bearable for our furry pets. 

When you see your rabbit sitting and moping in a corner, 
paying no regard to his meals, etc., you may rest assured that 
he is not in good health, and you should immediately try and 
find out the reason and apply the remedy. 

Let me impress upon your minds that in all cases 'Preven- 
tion Is Better Than Cure," and if rabbits are kept in condition 
in well ventilated hutches, dry and warm, supplied with suit- 
able food, they often go through their «lives without having a 
single ill. 

The prescribed treatment is founded on actual experience, 
and it is hoped that this article will enable the fancier to 
understand the various ills, and apply suitable remedies. 



APPETITE, LOSS OF 

Is due to various causes, generally a simple cold or its digestive 
organs may be disordered. 

Treatment — Keep the rabbit warm and give a warm stimu- 
lant to drink such as mulled ale, or a little sweet wine, tempt 
with some delicacy such as a piece of carrot, bread and milk, 
steamed corn, with a few tea leaves mixed in ; if in the summer 
give a little dandelion daily. 



l6 the: rabbit 

BLINDNESS IN THE YOUNG 

Can often be traced to filthy hutches or some projecting nail 
or wire. When the hutches are neglected the filth develops 
noxious gases and tends to inflame their eyes, often causing 
total blindness; they appear swollen and often red pimples are 
to be seen around the lids. 

Treatment — Isolate the rabbit, taking care that the hutch 
is warm. Bathe the eyes with a lotion of 1/4 oz. of sulphate 
of zinc to a pint of water, apply two or three times a day with 
a soft sponge. 

CANKER 

In the ear is a very uncommon disease and one quite difficult 
to cure. The symptoms are a thick yellow discharge from the 
inside of the ears and sometimes from the eyes also. 

Treatment — Clean out the ear with a small soft sponge 
fastened to a stick soaked in warm water, wiped dry carefully 
and w^ash out with the zinc lotion, twice a day, cleanse the 
animal's bowels with cabbage leaves or a small dose of flowers 
of sulphur in its food. 

COLIC 

Is a painful contraction of the bowels due to indigestion or 
from constipation, the animal is restless and the belly seems to 
be more or less distended with wind. 

Treatment — Dissolve a Beecham's pill in water, say two 
teaspoonfuls, give half a dose once a da}- until the bowels act 
freely, feed carefully for a few days, giving little green stuf?. 

CONSTIPATION 

Is not generally difficult to cure ; it is caused by an excess of 
food. The rabbit is seen to mope in the corner of the hutch 
and refuses to eat, yet seems often very thirsty. 



the; rabbit 17 

Treatment — Give the pill solution until the bowels move 
freely, feed bread and milk or green food, being careful not to 
cause the other extreme. 

DIARRHOEA 

The passage of loose watery stools more frequently than is 
natural constitutes diarrhoea, and may result from several 
causes such as a chill, excessive heat, a fright or a too liberal 
supply of green food when unaccustomed to it. 

Treatment — Remove the rabbit to a warm, dry hutch, and 
take an ordinary dose (for a grown person) of any favorite 
"cholera cure," add to one teaspoonful twelve or fifteen tea- 
spoonfuls of water, mix well, give the affected animal a tea- 
spoonful every three hours until an improvement is noticeable. 
Supply w^ith dry oats, bread or clover hay, allow a little milk 
or water, but no green food until recovery is assured. 

An over supply of succulent food to young growing stock is 
often the cause of 

DROPSY 

The belly becomes swollen and hard and for a time does not 
seem to seriously affect them, but soon they lose their relish 
for food and if not relieved will gradually pine away and die. 

Treatment — Remove to a large, airy hutch where they may 
have more exercise, or let them run on the rabbitry floor, feed 
them dry bread, oats, cracked peas,, hay (not clover), water 
once a day, and occasionally a carrot or turnip, rigidly excluding 
the green food until health is regained. 

EAR GUM 

The ears should be occasionally examined, to see if they are 
free from dirt and wax; when suffering from this trouble 
they shrink from being handled, as it no doubt is painful to 
them. 



18 THE RABBIT 

Treatment — Syringe the ear carefully with warm water and 
glycerine, care being taken not to inject too forcibly, dry with 
a soft sponge and apply some simple ointment daily, avoid 
handling by the ears at all times, as heavy specimens are often 
seriously injured by so doing, causing serious inflammatory con- 
ditions so difficult to eradicate. 

FITS 

Or convulsions are most commonly met with in j^oung stock, 
and generally can be traced to some irritating cause, such as 
indigestion or over-feeding. 

Treatment — Keep the affected rabbit warm and dry, and 
give the following pill: Sulphate of iron 1 grain, extract of 
gentian 2 grains, to make one pill. One to be given twice 
daily. Give plenty of good nourishing food and exercise. 

SORE HOCK 

Is generally caused by filthy hutches, dampness, and sticks or 
slivers in their litter ; those who use sawdust or machine shav- 
ings for litter can easily trace the cause of their troubles; 
improper feeding will debilitate and lower the vitality necessary 
to heal the wounds inflicted by their stamping, while the damp 
filth will prove a continuous irritant. 

Treatment — First clean the hutch thoroughly, then white- 
wash, provide a good bed of hay or oat straw, wash the affected 
parts in warm water, dry thoroughly, apply carbolized vaseline 
in an aggravated case put on a bandage, being sure to sew it 
on, not leaving any ends for the animal to nibble on. Give 
good wholesome food and water or bread and milk. 

INSECTS 

Are generally traced to neglect. 

Treatment — Is simply cleanliness and sanitation. Carbo- 
lized whitewash is recommended. 



THE RABBIT 19 

MANGE 

Is caused by a parasite which burrows in the skin and is analo- 
gous to the itch in man. Sulphur is considered a specific in 
man, so it must follow the same in the rabbit. 

Treatment — Isolate the rabbit and apply the following oint- 
ment : Flowers of sulphur 1 oz., lard 4 oz., mix. I have been 
unusually successful in treating mange in dogs, cats and rab- 
bits with carbolized vaseline. The animal does not lick it off 
as they will the sulphur mixture and it is certainly much easier 
applied. In every case thoroughly cleanse the hutch contain- 
ing the affected animal. 

PARALYSIS 

This disease generally attacks the hind quarters and renders 
them quite useless. The cause is generally traced to uncleanli- 
ness and damp floors. 

Treatment — Keep the rabbit warm and furnish nutritious 
food; also remove all filth in the hutch and disinfect thor- 
oughly ; give twice a day a pill as follows : Tartrate of iron 20 
grains, quinine 10 grains, extract of gentian 20 grains; mix, 
make into 10 pills. 

RED WATER 

Or as is often called bloody urine, is an affection of the kidneys 
and has no general symptoms except as stated, and if allowed 
to go on will cause a rapid decline and end fatally. 

Treatment — Care in food, fresh air and a warm, even tem- 
perature. Give 10 drops of the following twice a day in water: 
Sulphuric ether i^ oz., tinct. gentian >< oz., tinct. ginger ^ oz. 
Mix. 



20 THK RABBIT 

SNUFFLES OR INFLUENZA 

In the English breeder's hutches, snuffles is almost always 
present and is invariably fatal if not promptly attended to ; the 
American fancier is often troubled with the disease, but it 
seldom is as virulent as our foreign friends find it. Just as a 
man neglects his own person when suffering from a cold, so is 
the person apt to neglect the rabbits. But a cold is always a 
matter of concern in a rabbit, and should receive immediate 
attention. The symptoms of snuffles are sneezing, moist nos- 
trils, which in a few days become thick and filthy, refusal of 
food and its coat becomes rough and disordered, giving every 
sign of illness and discomfort. 

Treatment — Wash the nose and mouth well with carbolic 
soap, also the fore legs and feet two or three times a day, wipe 
dry and put an extra quantity of fine hay in the hutch, keep in 
a cool, airy place and feed stimulating foods. Where this 
course does not effect a cure, the following favorite English 
prescription is recommended, which must be used in an ordinary 
vaporizer: Fill the vaporizer about two-thirds full of boiling 
water,, into this pour >^ oz. of soluble sanitas oil, 1 teaspoonful 
of oil of eucalyptus and 10 drops oil of camphor, place the top 
on and light the lamp underneath. Place the rabbit in a small 
hutch, covering up with old sacks to prevent the escape of the 
steam. Insert the spout of the vaporizer into the lower part 
of the hutch allowing the steam to enter. By this treatment 
it is intended to have the medicated vapor reach the affected 
membranes by inhalation. Treat in this manner for ten or 
fifteen minutes, care being taken that the invalid is not suffo- 
cated by the operation ; after treatment leave the rabbit in the 
hutch for a half hour, then remove as previously advised. It 
is said that three operations generally effect a cure. In severe 
cases three drops of eucalyptus and glycerine in equal parts, 
given in a spoonful of milk for a few^ days, is recommended. 



THE RABBIT 21 

VENT DISEASE 

Occurs in does and is traceable to improper pairing. It is very 
troublesome to cure, but if taken early and attended to patiently 
a cure is usually effected in a few days. 

Treatment — Isolate the affected rabbit and apply carbolized 
vaseline twice a day, rubbing it well into the affected parts. 
Do not mate until entirely cured, as the trouble can be spread 
indefinitely by a brood buck. 

In conclusion I wish to bring to notice and in almost every 
case the trouble can be prevented, as has been stated previously 
we have reason to be thankful that so few of these diseases 
are found in this country. But that fact does not secure 
immunity. We must be cautious in feeding, secure ventilation 
without draughts, and enforce a rigid regime of cleanliness, if 
we wish to go through the hot summer months with the health 
of our pets unimpaired. Build up your does weakened from 
excessive breeding by allowing a rest in summer. You will 
have just as many rabbits next January, by so doing, and I 
assure you that you will have fewer dead and stronger living 
ones. 



22 THE RABBIT 

THE SEVERAL VARIETIES OF RABBITS 







' .''//Hi 




THE BDI^GIAN HARE RABBIT. 



The Belgian Hare Rabbit is said to have originated in 
Belgium, where they are now found small in size, but grand 
in color and markings. They are also found in France, Flan- 
ders and Germany in various stages of imperfection. They are 
called Belgian Hares simply on account of their resemblance to 
the hare. 

It was for a long time supposed that this valuable rabbit was 
a cross between the hare and the rabbit. This is not so, and all 
attempts to produce the hybrid have either resulted in a failure 
or the production of a sterile mule. The habits of the hare 
differ so materially from those of the rabbit that the crossing 
is effected with great difficulty. 



THK RABEIT 23 

"'• The- h?ire is born fully developed with eyes open, and can 
run about and eat almost immediately; while the rabbit comes 
into the world blind, naked and helpless, and does not venture 
from the nest until from tw^o to three weeks of age. The hare 
nests on the ground, in sorrie sheltered location, never burrow- 
ing; while the rabbit always burrows in the wild state and will 
when in captivity, if allowed. 

The Belgian of to-day shows the improvement attainable by 
judicious and systematic breeding; foremost in importance is 
their increased size and prolificacy. As the modern Belgian is 
distinctively a production of the English fancier, the English 
standard of excellence will be our guide in describing its char- 
acteristics as a distinct variety, 

To properly describe the Belgian Hare is difficult, especially 
the color. "Rufus-red" is a reddish tan, clear and bright, 
showing the clearest on the top of the neck and fore shoulders 
of the animal. The ticking consists of each hair of the animal's 
coat being tipped with black, which, according to its density 
and distribution, its value is governed. The more mottled or 
wavy it appears, the more points are secured. Starting at the 
shoulders, the color shades darker back over the back and sides, 
showing the ticking in its finest markings; the haunches are 
of a gray shade, but showing a distinct brownish cast, they 
being usually well marked with a wavy ticking. 

The head and ears have a dark shading, but no distinct tick- 
ing, it being so evenly distributed as not to be called ticked. 
The head is not large in proportion to the body; it is carried 
well up and graceful. The forehead is flat and very prominent 
over the eyes, giving them a very prominent appearance. The 
eyes are bold, round, and of a dark brown color, possessing a 
wonderfully pleasing and contented expression. The ears, about 
five inches long, set up firm, close together and leaning slightly 
back, having an edging of black over the tips and extending well 
down the edges. This edging is termed lacing and is character- 
istic of this variety. 



24 the; RABtelt 

The fore feet and legs are small and delicate, and are kept 
well under the animal, are well colored and free from ivhite. 

The belly and the underside of the tail are white, preferably 
with a brownish cast. 

The hind feet and legs are large, strong and powerful ; while 
generally lighter in color than the fore feet, they must show no 
white on the outside or top; for the slightest white on the face, 
legs or body of a Belgian Hare is a disqualification. 

Shape in the Belgian is, aside from color, the chief attraction 
in appearance, and it is difficult to secure and maintain. The 
Belgian should be long and slim in build, long and fine in bone, 
narrow in front, long and lean in the head — in fact, a rabbir 
calculated to give the observer the impression of speed. The 
length characteristic to be accompanied with a corresponding 
gracefulness and symmetry of form. The angular, gawky, 
stumpy, or mule-like forms being decidedly objectionable. 

The English standard for weight is about eight pounds, which 
could, in this more favorable climate be made more, say nine 
pounds, without sacrificing other valuable points. Specimens 
are occasionally shown weighing from ten to eleven pounds. 
No objection should be made to this excessive weight, provided, 
however, their characteristics are maintained. As a rule, the 
heavy specimens are very faulty in color and form, also often 
possessing a well developed dewlap. Coarse, heavy head and 
ears, bad feet and stumpy forms are too often seen in these 
elephantine specimens. Belgians should not have a dewlap and 
the exhibition specimen is cut five points when possessing such 
an appendage. 

Belgians, though not so showy as some of the smaller breeds, 
by reason of their self-color, are noble looking animals, and for 
domestic use are of greater value than any of their companions. 
They are hardy, and few are born that will not with ordinary 



THE RABBIT 25 

care and attention be reared to maturity. They are usually 
prolific, producing from six to ten young at a litter, and will 
breed from six to eight times a year. They are very docile, 
much more so than the smaller varieties, and do not consume 
as much food as is expected for their size. 

Of all domestic breeds the flesh of the Belgian tastes the most 
like the hare, and has not the rank flavor so common in the 
ordinary rabbit. They will live and thrive in woods or war- 
rens, when turned down for breeding at six or eight months 
old, if some protection be given them from the inclemencies of 
our seasons. 

THE ENGLISH STANDARD FOR THE BELGIAN HARE. 

1. Color — Rich rufus red (not dark, smudgy color) car- 

ried well down sides and hind quarters, and as little 
white under the jaws as possible 20 

2. Ticking/ — Rather wavy appearance and plentiful 15 

3. Shape — Body long, thin, well tucked-up flank and well 

ribbed up; back slightly arched; loins well rounded, 
not choppy ; head rather lengthy ; muscular chest ; tail 
straight, not wry, and altogether of a racy appearance 20 

4. Ears — About five inches long, thin, well laced on tips 

and as far down outside edges as possible; good color 
inside and outside and well set on 10 

5. Eyes — Hazel color, large, round, bright and bold 10 

6. Le^s and Feet — Forefeet and legs long, straight, slender, 

well colored and free from white bars; hindfeet as 
well colored as possible 10 



26 THE RABBIT 

7. Size — About eight pounds. 5 

8. Condition — Not fat, but flesh firm like a racehorse, and 

. good quality of fur 5 

9. Without dewlap 5 

Total ..100 

Black Belgians. — Breeders of. Belgian Hares frequently 
are surprised by the advent of one or two black young ones in 
a litter and often they hasten to destroy the stock as impure. 
The following article taken from the leading English authority 
on Belgians will I think clear away the doubt to many. 

"The value of Black Belgian Hares for stud purposes is very 
imperfectly understood. As you are aware, the old breeders 
make very successful use of them, as Black is part of the color 
of a Belgian, at times they are likely to throw a black. For 
many reasons they are invaluable; they are useful to mate to 
does lacking tone and too light in color; they also infuse new 
vigor in their offspring; they are always the most healthy, the 
strongest. and the most precocious of the litter. But why are 
they blackf - In making the Belgian a Belgian, black blood was 
introduced for just the purpose stated, and now that nature 
having all its force and energy concentrated, the revision 'S 
accounted for. 

The Lop-Eared Rabbit_, until recently, was the most pop- 
ular of the fancy varieties, the peculiar formation of its ears 
being its chief attraction. They have enormous drooping ears, 
often measuring twenty-two or more inches from tip to tip, and 
are often over six inches In width, this ear development being 
of the greatest importance in the breeder's mind. They have 



THE RABBIT 



27 



i 



msM^ i 




not yet become popular In this country, probably on account of 
requiring so much attentioa and care, they have become by 
years of breeding a hot house variety. The hutch must be kept 
warm, and in the cooler months. artificial heat must be supplied. 
The Lop generally possesses a large dewlap, which is not an 
objection, other points over-balancing. 

In self-colors they are found black, grey, white, blue, fawn 
.and yellow. In broken colors, combinations of white with any 
of the above, and even a mixture of black, fawn and white are 
found, making the tortoise ^hell. 

Lops often weigh from sixteen to seventeen pounds, and even 
eighteen pounds is recorded. 

The Siberian Rabbit in perfection should resemble both 
the Himalayan and the Angora, having the Himalayan mark- 
ing and the Angora's fleece. Most specimens shown are but 
crosses of the two v.arieties. 

The Dutch Rabbit, though m^uch smaller yet none the 
less popular, is a comparative stranger in this country. They 
are very pretty and useful; the size is- bred down by the exact- 
ing fancier, their weight being limited to five ox six pounds. 
Their ears are just th.e reverse of the Lop, standing erect and 



98 THB RABBIT 



i 



being quite short. They are usually prolific and hardy and 
will breed eight or ten times a year, raising eight or ten young 
at a litter. On account of their wonderful milking proclivities 
they are selected as nurse does where more valuable stock is to 
be raised. In colors they range over the same as the Lops and 
have a characteristic marking of white in the shape of a broad 
band or collar around the body at the shoulders and a white 
bla^e in the face; in the old style this collar being much larger 
than in the new style which covers only the neck and forward 
toes. 

The Egyptian Rabbit is a new comer, resembling the 
Himalayan so closely that the assertion that they were of no 
relation was received with doubt. They weigh from eight to 
ten pounds and are hardy and prolific. The body is white 
with black ears, nose, feet and tail; it has also a black ring 
around each eye and a black stripe extending along the back. 
Where first brought to notice in France, they are said to be a 
superior article of food, fully equaling any of its competitors. 



THE RABBIT 



29 




The Himalayan bids strong for popularity on account of 
its beautiful markings. The body is white and the fur short 
and fine, while the ears, nose, feet and tail are dark nut brown, 
almost black ; the eyes are red, the ears are very short and firm. 
They weigh from five to seven pounds and are extremely 
hardy and quite prolific. 

The Silver-Gray Rabbit originally was a near neighbor- 
to the Himalayan, and has become a favorite in Europe and 
England. They have improved wonderfully in appearance 
since their introduction. In color they run from a bluish- 
brown through the slates to a black under color. The ideal 
rabbit being a dark blue under color and well silvered, with 
white hairs tipped with black. They are good breeders and 
are hardy, growing to a good size, often weighing ten pounds 
at maturity. The Creams and Fawns are offshoots from the 
Silver Grays, and are probably bred and sold as such. They 
share the popularity their ancestors enjoyed and are with them 
the fanciers' choice in England at present. 

The Japanese Rabbit appeared simultaneously with the 
Egyptian and is thought to be allied to the Dutch, though 
claimed to be a distinct variety. Some shown in Paris in 1888 
were of the true tortoise-shell color, which is black, brown and 



30 



THE RABBIT 



orange — no white as in the Lop or Dutch markings. The head 
and ears were beautifully striped, as were the feet. The speci- 
mens shown weighed about ten pounds each and were said to 
compare favorably with the other breeds in hardiness and 
prolificacy. 




The Angora Rabbit is decidedly popular wherever bred ; 
they occupy a distinct place in the fancy as a freak of nature 
that is at once ornamental and useful. The coat of the Angora 
is its chief attraction, being composed of long, fine, fleecy wool, 
making them appear to be of prodigious size, when in reality 
they are no heavier than the larger specimens of the Dutch. 
The most valuable are the white with pink eyes, although 
colored ones are frequently selected. They are good breeders 
and attentive mothers. Especial care must be taken to keep 
the hutch clean and well supplied with clean hay or straw, and 
their fleeces kept free from knots and filth. 

The Polish Rabbit is pure white, thin pink ears, colorless 
eyes, and altogether a delicate, timid animal. They are said 
to have originally been found in Poland, but every investiga- 
tion seems to prove that they are but Albinos, inbred until all 



THE RABBIT 



31 



vitality and hardiness has been bred out. They are indifferent 
breeders and inattentive mothers and can only be placed as pets. 

The Flemish Giant Rabbit, aside from the Belgian Hare, 
is the most popular of ^he large breeds. It is claimed by some 
that the Flemish is an overgrow^n Belgian which by continued 
selection and breeding has resulted in the present variety. If 
this be so, they are far removed, for the Flemish is character- 
istically a distinct variety. One will meet more Belgian- 
Flemish crosses than pure blood of either variety. The Flemish 




stands the only rival to the Belgian and is far behind in popu- 
larity at present. The Flemish Giant weighs from twelve to 
fifteen pounds, and in color is a dark steel-gray; ears about 
six inches long, carried erect. This variety possesses a large 
dewlap ; eyes dark brown ; bulldog shoulders, and massive hind 
quarters ; they are fair breeders and are quite prolific and hardy. 

The English Rabbit, while comparatively unknown here, 
is very popular with the English fancier. They are peculiarly 
marked, reminding one of the coach dog — white with black 
spots. The most valuable arrangement of spots are one on, 



32 THE RABBIT 

or one each side of the nose, a ring around each eye, black ears 
and tail, black patches along the back and sides, gradually 
increasing in size from the shoulders back over the body; the 
more S5^mmetrically they are arranged the greater their value. 
This rabbit is essentially a fancy variety, and compares well 
with the other varieties for size and prolificacy. 

The Patagonian Rabbit is the giant of the species, aver- 
aging from fourteen to fifteen pounds. Some authorities claim 
them to be an offshoot of the Belgian or the Flemish. The 
color is iron gray somewhat tawny, and rough coated ; they 
have large, thick, heavy ears, the tips of which are soft and 
pendulous ; usually they are carried standing out from the head 
like a letter V. In this variety are found several styles of lop- 
ear, namely: half-lop, horn-lop, and oar-lop, which are con- 
sidered very objectionable. 

The St. Hubert Rabbit is the lord of the fancy in France, 
where it originated ; though only recently perfected, it has 
become very popular as a fancy and as a market rabbit. The 
French claim all the good qualities of the other varieties are 
to be found in the St. Hubert. They weigh from twelve to 
fifteen pounds and resemble the Belgian Hare in shape. In 
color, the body and ears are silver, the nose and belly white. 
They have two stripes of white across the back, the ears are 
laced like the Belgian Hare. The matings necessary to pro- 
duce the St. Hubert are these: 

Silver buck x Belgian doe .A 

A X Wild Rabbit doe B 

B X Flemish Giant doe St. Hubert 

Five or six years of mating and selecting have fixed the char- 
acteristics of this variety as a distinct breed. 

The Ram Rabbit of Spain resembles the Patagonian, with 
the exception that the Ram possesses a dewlap. 



THE RABBIT 33 

The Swan Rabbit is similar except the ears, which are 
about two inches long. These last two varieties have not been 
accepted by fanciers yet, therefore our knowledge of them is 
limited. 

Last, but not least, allow me to introduce the Dead Rabbit. 
This genus is found all over the United States; they are easily 
recognized whenever encountered. Immediately upon a hard- 
working fancier securing a success in his fancy, these leeches 
assume all the responsibility and proclaim to the world that it 
was their stock (how modest!) which won the victory; they 
seize upon every occasion to flood the country with the grossest 
imitations of the genuine article, and when brought face to 
face w^ith their outraged patrons flatly deny any intent to 
defraud. The Belgian Hare has not escaped these most rav- 
enous of beasts. Care has been taken to exclude this variety 
from these pages, hoping the near future will find the Dead 
Rabbit known only in ancient history. 

Respectfully yours, 

THE AUTHOR. 



34 THE RABBIT 

Raising Belgian Hares and Other Rabbits 

By David E. LauTz, Asgt. Bureau of Biological Survey 
(U. S. Department of Agriculture, Farmers' Bulletin No. 496) 



D 



INTRODUCTION 

HE present bulletin Is designed to answer briefly the 
many letters of Inquiry received by the Department 
of^ Agriculture, particularly by the Bureau of Bio- 
logical Survey, relative to the breeding and manage- 
ment of Belgian hares and other domesticated rabbits. No 
originality Is claimed for the subject matter. The principal 
facts In regard to the raising of rabbits are as well established 
as those relating to rearing the more important domestic ani- 
mals, and the volume of directions needed Is small. Once 
launched as a breeder, the amateur will accumulate experience 
day by day which will soon enable him to avoid gross mistakes 
in rabbit management. 

RABBITS AS FOOD 

In the United States wild rabbits have always been an 
important source of food, especially during the cold part of the 
year, and hence less attention has been paid to the breeding of 
rabbits than in most foreign countries. It would be impossible 
to estimate correctly the number of rabbits marketed and eaten 
In Great Britain. Not only are the home warrens and farms 
drawn upon for a supply, but from 10,000 to 12,000 tons are 
imported annually, coming partly from the Continent, but In 
greatest numbers from Australia and New Zealand. 

In France, Holland, and Belgium rabbits are a common 
article of diet and rabbit breeding Is general on farms, especially 
where the land holdings are small. Spain produces many 



THE RABBIT 35 

domestic rabbits and is sometimes regarded as the original home 
of the common European rabbit {Lepus cuniculus), since 
Strabo, writing about the beginning of the Christian era, stated 
that ship cargoes of rabbits were brought to the Roman markets 
from that country. Whether or not the European rabbit is 
superior as food to the wild cottontail rabbit of our forests and 
fields is a matter of individual taste. The so-called Belgian 
hare is merely a domesticated form of the wild rabbit of Eu- 
rope, long bred with special reference to the development of a 
superior food animal. Its flesh is generally considered better 
than that of the ordinary hutch rabbit. 



HISTORY AND CHARACTERISTICS OF THE 
BELGIAN HARE 

ORIGIN 

The Belgian hare probably originated in Belgium or northern 
France. It was quite generally known in the northern part of 
Continental Europe before the attention of English fanciers was 
directed to it. As their first stock came from Belgium, that 
country was credited with having originated the breed, which 
was exploited in England and elsewhere as being a cross be- 
tween the rabbit and the wild hare (Lepus timidus).* This 
claim seems to have been fully disproved by many unsuccessful 
efforts to produce the same cross. The chief known reason for 
calling the animal a hare lies in its color resemblance to the 
wild hare. 

THE BELGIAN HARE IN AMERICA 

In the hands of English fanciers, the Belgian hare was greatly 
improved, and it is still a popular breed with them, although the 

*J. Simpson, in The Wild Rabbit (London, 1895) states that the Belgian 
hare is such a hybrid, and that it was originated by a M. Roux, of Angouleme, 
France. 



36 



THE RABBIT 



fad for it never reached the acute stage shown later among 
American breeders. The animal was introduced into this coun- 
try over 20 3'ears ago, and within a few years its popularity 
became astounding. The finest show animals commanded 




BELGIAN HARE. 



enormous prices and extraordinary claims were made as to the 
excellence of the breed for the table. As was natural, when 
the reaction came and the public found out that the Belgian 
hare is a rabbit not much superior to other kinds, the animal was 



THJS RABBIT 37 

unjustly condemned and execrated. As a consequence, the 
whole business of breeding domestic rabbits in the United States 
has for the past few years been much neglected. 

In spite of the setback caused by the collapse of the Belgian- 
hair bubble, this breed has maintained a greater popularity than 
any other, and many breeders are still raising it. The Flemish 
giant, owing to its greater size, is preferred by some. The fact 
that rabbits are easily grown and are a cheap and excellent sub- 
stitute for the ordinary meats is likely to turn the attention of 
many more persons to rearing the animals. That they can be 
propagated without costly investment in land and buildings :s 
a peculiar advantage. Further, the presence on the farm of 
another animal which, like poultry, may be killed and prepared 
for the table entire and at short notice, is exceedingly desirable. 
All these circumstances make it extremely probable that the 
business of rearing rabbits will grow in importance. The tend- 
ency in this direction is evidenced by the increasing number of 
inquiries about the management of the animals received by the 
Department of Agriculture. The greater number of these 
relate to the Belgian hare. 

THE BELGIAN HARE AS FOOD 

The Belgian hare is one of the best rabbits for table use. It 
weighs more than most breeds, develops very rapidly, and the 
quality of the meat is superior to all the others. The Flemish 
giant is a Belgian hare bred exclusively for large size, but with 
the result that the meat is coarser and less delicate in flavor. 
These characteristics are regarded by some persons as desirable, 
but this is largely a matter of individual taste. Most people 
would prefer the white, hner-grained flesh of the original Bel- 
gian hare. It should be remarked, however, that much of the 
excellence of the rabbit as food depends upon its cooking. As 
often prepared, it is dry and insipid; while in the hands of an 
experienced cook it becomes all that the most fastidious taste 
can wish. An especial requirement in cooking the Belgian hare 



38 THE RABBIT 

is that none of the natural juices of the meat be lost in the 
process. 

CARE OF OTHER BREEDS OF RABBITS 

The directions herein given for the care of Belgian rabbits 
are applicable to the management of most other breeds. The 
ordinary English rabbit, regarded as of less value as a food 
animal, is even more hardy and therefore needs less care. The 
lop-eared rabbits and possibly a fev^ other breeds require arti- 
ficially heated quarters in v^^inter, but in other respects their 
management is the same as for the Belgians. 



SELECTION OF STOCK 

If one breeds rabbits for food only and not for shov^r purposes, 
the selection of stock is of less importance. All that is required 
is a sizable animal of good, hardy stock. Hov^^ever, the points 
for which the fancier breeds the Belgian hare include also those 
most desirable in a food animal, so that if one can find stock 
w^ith these characters well marked, and at the same time con- 
stitutionally sound, he should by all means obtain it. Pure- 
bred stock is more profitable, too, because it may be sold for 
breeding purposes as well as for the table. 

Color. — Belgian hare fanciers of a few years ago differed 
somewhat in opinion as to the proper standard color for this 
animal. Some aimed at the color of the wild English hare — 
a sandy light brown. Most American breeders seem to have 
preferred a deeper reddish brown. In all other respects the 
standards were the same. The chief requisite concerning color 
is that it shall be as nearly uniform as possible throughout the 
upper surface of the animal and that the fur shall have a rich 
luster. The "ticking," or shading, should be wavy rather than 
dotted. The belly and lower surface of tail and hind feet 
should be whitish, but not pure white. The neck and breast 



THE RABBIT 39 

are somewhat lighter in shade than the back, but not in marked 
contrast with it, nor should the change in shade be abrupt. 

Ears. — The ears of the mature Belgian should be about 5 to 
5^ inches in length, varying with the size of the specimen. 
They should be well shaped, strong at the base, and almost 
transparent at the middle. They must not be pendulous, but 
should, when the animal is quiet, be inclined backward, resting 
straight over the shoulders. A narrow black ending at the tip 
and as far down the front and back as possible marks the best 
specimens. 

Body. — The body of the Belgian is longer in proportion to 
the whole bulk than that of any other breed of the same size. 
Bucks and the younger females should never have the appendage 
known as "dewlap." This sometimes develops in the older 
does, but is regarded as a blemish in animals intended for show 
purposes. The back should be only slightly arched and the 
forelegs and feet should be perfectly straight and free from 
white. 

Age of breeding stock. — The beginner should always select 
mature animals about a year old for breeding stock. These 
may be known by the brisk, alert look, the small white teeth, 
and the small claws, almost hidden in the fur. Coarse, long 
claws are a sure indication of age. He should avoid listless- 
looking, rough-coated, or pot-bellied animals (except pregnant 
does), and especially those having the whites of the eyes staineJ 
with yellow. A hutch rabbit in good health is gentle, neithe. 
savage nor over timid, and does not scream when lifted by the 
ears. 

The sexes. — The does selected for breeding may be of the 
same strain and even of the same litter, but the buck should 
be of different stock, and when possible obtained from another 
breeder. Hardy animals with the best characteristics of the 
breed may be bought at from $1 to $2 each. They may often 



40 THE RABBIT 

be had of near-by breeders, and thus save the expense of car- 
riage on long journeys by express. 



HUTCHES AND PENS 

The Belgian hare does not do well when kept wild in open 
warrens. The common English rabbit is better for this pur- 
pose, A good many Belgians have been turned out in various 
parts of the United States, and in the vicinity of the city of 
New York and on the western coast there have been some 
complaints of damage to crops by wild Belgian hares. As a 
rule, however, and fortunately for the farmer, these animals, 
when obliged to shift for themselves, fall an easy prey to their 
enemies and disappear within a few^ months. 

Belgian hares may be successfully managed in two ways: 
(1) Entirely in hutches, or (2) in outdoor fenced runs, or 
courts, with hutches for does when having young, and sleeping 
hutches for other stock. The hutch system with various modi- 
fications is the more common, and is the only method adopted 
by rabbit fanciers w^ho raise for show. The use of small runs 
or rabbit courts to give the animals healthful exercise in fine 
weather is of advantage. 

THE RABBITRY 

The rabbitry may occupy part or all of a barn or shed, or 
be built in a sheltered space in the angle between buildings '^r 
walls. The indoor rabbitry has decided advantages. The 
place should be well ventilated, but not subject to draughts of 
cold or damp air. These may be prevented by ventilators in 
the roof, or by a system of elbowed pipes passing through th? 
sides of the building and reaching a height of 2 or 3 feet above 
the openings. 



THE RABBIT 



41 



HUTCHES 

Hutches for the Belgian hare should be somewhat larger 
than those intended for smaller breeds. They should be built 
of good lumber, should have tight floors, and should have at 
least 12 square feet of floor space and a height of 2 feet. If 
there is plenty of room in the rabbitry it is best to have the 
hutches separate ; but they are usually set in tiers or stacks, two 
or three in height. Each hutch in the rank is complete in itself, 
so that its position may be shifted at any time. 




FIG. 1— A CONVENIENT RABBIT HUTCH. 

A convenient indoor hutch (Fig. 1) is one 6 by 2 by 2 feet, 
with a movable partition dividing off a third of the space at 
one end for a nest and sleeping chamber. The partition has i 
smooth hole to permit passage of the animals from one part to 
the other. The front of the hutch has two doors, one of wire 
netting, the other of wood. The wooden door leads to the 
sleeping chamber and should close tightly. It is best to use 
metal hinges for the doors. The partition may slide in a groove 
between the doors or may be put in and taken out through one 
of the door openings. 



42 



THE RABBIT 



Outdoor hutches should have sloping roofs and overhanging 
eaves to protect them from rain. The screened door should 



I 




FIG. 2— MOVABLE OUTDOOR HUTCH. 

have a sliding cover of wood or be fitted with a removable cloth 
cover. Small holes bored near the top of the hutch will afEord 
all necessary ventilation. 




FIG. S—A SIMPLE MOVABLE OUTDOOR HUTCH. 

Movable hutches (Fig. 2) have some advantages. They 
may be carried outdoors in fine weather and taken back under 
shelter at night or during storms. Long, narrow cleats pro- 



THB RABBIT 



43 



jecting at both ends of the hutch are all that are needed tj 
convert the ordinary hutch into a movable one. Tw^o forms 
of outdoor hutch sometimes used are shown in Figs. 3 and 4. 
That in Fig. 3 has no floor except a wire screen, permitting the 
rabbits to eat grass or other herbage that projects through the 
netting. 

COURTS 

A rabbit court may be paved or floored, or it may be a grass 
court surrounded by a rabbit-proof fence. Sleeping hutches 
inside the court may be small boxes of any sort if they are stout 




FIG. 4— A SIMPLE OUTDOOR HUTCH. 

and waterproof. They should have sliding doors to confine 
the rabbits if desired, and should also have small holes near 
the top for ventilation. If a court is used, hutches will still 
be needed for the breeding does. 

A rabbit-proof fence to inclose a grass court should be made 
of heavy poultry netting 5 or 6 feet wide and of 1^2 -inch mesh. 
The posts, projecting 3 or 4 feet above the ground, should be 
well set outside the edge of the court. The netting is stapled 
to the posts, leaving a projection of 6 inches or more at the top 



44 THE RABBIT 

and about 18 inches at the ground, to be turned into the court. 
The lower edge should be covered with 10 or 12 inches of soil 
to prevent the animals from digging out. The upper edge '3 
also turned inward to keep them from climbing over. Brackets 
at the tops of the posts make the best support for the overhang- 
ing netting, although horizontal pieces of wood nailed to the 
posts will answer. 



FOOD AND FEEDING 

The rabbit thrives well on a diversit)' of vegetable foods. 
Many writers on the care of this animal prescribe elaborate lists 
of foods to be followed week in and out. The fact is that a 
few staple foods are sufficient, but no animal is more adaptable 
to sudden changes of diet; so that one can feed what is available 
or cheap, the idea being to produce weight with the least pos- 
sible outlay of money. 

GRAIN AND HAY 

The best grain for rabbits is oats, either whole or crushed, 
though corn meal, barley, or other grain may often be fed by 
way of change. The crushed oats are best when freshly broken, 
and a hand mill for preparing them is a valuable adjunct to a 
rabbitry. 

Hay is a necessary part of the rabbit's diet and if possible 
that of the very best quality should be used. It should be 
entirely free from moldiness, and the unsweated is alwa3's prefer- 
able. If one has small grounds where suitable grass grows, the 
mowing may be done at short intervals and the hay thoroughly 
cured in such small quantities that no sweating takes place. 
However, if sweet hay is not available the sweated may be fe4 
to the rabbits without injury, unless it be moldy. 



THK RABBIT 45 

GREEN FOODS 

Rabbits require some green foods for winter. Cabbages, kale, 
spinach, and rape leaves are recommended. Turnips, beets, and 
mangels are often fed, and have been recommended by man}^ 
rabbit breeders, but the3^ do not keep so well as the foods just 
named. Turnips, unless kept in the ground, wilt by midwinter 
and are then of little use. Beets and mangels keep better, 
and the latter are the main dependence of some English rab- 
bltrles ; but, on the whole, cabbages are more economical, as 
well as more satisfactory In every way. They are usually avail- 
able until green stuff grows In the spring. Whatever green 
food Is put away for winter use must be stored where frost can 
not touch It, as freezing unfits It for rabbit food. Parsnips left 
In the ground all winter make an excellent early spring rabbit 
food after the frost leaves the ground In which they grow. 

FEEDING 

Rabbits should be fed twice daily. Ordinary stock Is fed 
morning and evening, but suckling does should have also a noon 
meal or be given more than they will eat at the other meals. 
The general rule is to feed only as much grain or green stuff 
as the animals will consume". Hay is put into the hutch to be 
available at any time, a part of it being left as litter. The exact 
amount of grain or green stuff for each rabbit at a meal can not 
be stated, as the appetite varies greatly at different times. Ob- 
servations of the quantity left over when the animals quit feed- 
ing will soon enable the feeder to adjust the meals to the needs 
of the rabbits. Overfeeding is a much more common mistake 
than underfeeding. 

Winter feeding. — In winter, one of the meals each day should 
be chiefly of green food (as roots or cabbage), and the other 
mainly of grain. Roots, cabbage, celery, and the like should be 
previously washed clean of soil, but should not be wet when 



46 THE) RABBIT 

given to the rabbits. If green food is given in the morning, the 
evening meal should be w^hole oats or other grain for mature 
animals. Those under 3 months of age should be given crushed 
oats w^ith a little bran, as they can not so w^ell masticate v^^hole 
grain. A little hay should be given v^^ith each meal. 

Summer feeding. — 'In summer, green food should be the chief 
reliance, and only a small quantity of hay or grain is needed. 
Rabbits are fond of all kinds of garden vegetables, besides wild 
parsley, dandelion, plantain, dock, and other weeds, as well as 
grasses. Agreeable changes in diet are always possible in sum- 
mer, but overfeeding should be avoided and also the feeding of 
stuff that is wet with dew or rain. It is best to cut clover or 
other green food in the afternoon before the dew falls and tj 
spread it under shelter so that it will not heat, but be still fresh 
at feeding time. 

Corrective feeding. — Occasionally a warm mash of cooked 
potatoes or of the leaves of clover hay mixed with "chops" or 
a little bran is desirable. Sometimes a little sulphur may be 
sprinkled with the mash, although a little flour mixed with the 
ordinary grain has about as good an effect in correcting looseness 
of the bowels. In cold weather some breeders feed a warm 
mash each evening. 

Unless green food is abundant rabbits should be given w^ater 
daily. In warm weather the water pans should be filled with 
fresh water twice each day. The does suckling young or soon 
to have young should be given milk diluted with one-third warm 
water. 

A piece of rock salt kept in each hutch affords a steady supply 
as needed and makes it unnecessary to supply salt in the food. 

Rabbits under 3 or 4 months old should be limited in the 
amount of green food. If allowed too much they are apt to 
become "pot-bellied." When a young rabbit is seen to grow big 
about its belly, the use of green food should be discontinued and 
the animal given plenty of exercise. Under such treatment ]t 



THE RABBIT 47 

will soon recover, but if the green food is continued the disease 
usually terminates in convulsions and death. Old rabbits arc 
not subject to this trouble. 



BREEDING 
AGE FOR MATING 

It is not desirable to pair rabbits until they are at least 6 
months old, although they may be bred earlier. Some breeders 
do not mate animals under 10 months of age. Healthy mature 
rabbits produce larger and stronger litters than ^^ounger stock do. 

METHODS OF. MATING 

Different breeders adopt different methods of mating. Some 
leave the buck in the hutch of the doe for but a few minutes, 
while others leave him over night. The older does should be 
mated in February, but it is well to defer mating a young doe 
until March. She then has young in April, when there is 
abundant green food to induce a good flow of milk. This lac- 
teal development once well established, she is likely always to 
give abundance of milk for her young. If one begins to pair 
in February he should expect to have each doe produce four 
litters a year, the young coming at intervals of about 12 weeks, 
with a longer rest in midwinter. 

PREPARING FOR THE YOUNG 

The gestation period of the rabbit is about 30 days. When 
the doe is nearly ready to bear young, her hutch should be thor- 
oughly cleaned and disinfected, after which a good supply of 
soft hay or straw (oat straw is best) should be placed in the 
body of the hutch to enable the doe to arrange her nest. If the- 
hutch is w^ithout nesting compartment, a box should be placed 



48 THE RABBIT 

in a corner. It should be 18 to 20 inches long, about a foot 
deep, 8 or 10 inches wide, and without a lid. Make a hole in 
one end large enough for the doe to pass through easily, and 
turn the box upside down. The doe will arrange her nest a 
day or two before the young are born. At this time extra at- 
tention should be given to her food. She should have milk and 
warm water regularly, and a pan of clean water should be kept 
constantly in the hutch. While a doe is heavy with young and 
for a few days after their birth, extreme care should be taken 
to see that she is not frightened by cats or dogs or even by 
strange visitors in the rabbitry. Avoid touching the nest or 
handling the young, unless it is absolutely necessary. 

DIET WHILE NURSING 

During the first week or two after having young the doe 
may be fed almost entirely on w^arm milk and bread. This is 
recommended for the bulk of the morning and evening meals, 
with a small supply of green food. Green food may be given 
also in the middle of the day, and the daily proportion gradually 
increased. Boiled mush made of corn meal is also an excellent 
food for suckling does, but most other pasty or watery foods 
should be avoided as likely to derange the bowels. Milk, and 
indeed any soft food, should be fed in a separate earthenware 
d!sh, especially in warm weather, when it sours quickly. The 
dish should be often washed and scalded. 

NUMBER OF YOUNG 

The number of young produced by the Belgian hare varies 
greatly. Litters of 10 or 12 occur, but these are too large for 
a doe to raise. An average of 6 or 7 is all that should be saved. 
It is of advantage to have several does breed at about the same 
time, for the number of young may then be adjusted by trans- 
ferring from those that have too many to those having few. 
The young begin to leave the nest when about 3 w^eks old. At 



THR RABBIT 49 

this time the nesting box or compartment should be thoroughly 
cleaned and disinfected and then furnished with fresh straw or 
ha}-. 

WEANING 

The _\oung may be weaned when a month old, but it is better 
to leave them with the doe two or three weeks longer. Remove 
two each day until all are transferred to another hutch, whicli 
may be large enough to accommodate any number. They do 
well together until they are 3 or 4 months old, when their de- 
velopment will compel separation of the sexes. After this any 
number of does may occupy the same hutch, but bucks, unless 
thoroughly accustomed to each other, will fight. 

MARKETING 



m 



At 4 months the young Belgian hare should be ready for 
arket, and if it has been properly fed should weigh about 6 
pounds or even more. This weight is about the best for market 
rabbits, and immediate sale is more profitable than keeping to 
maturity. Some breeders sell at 10 to 12 weeks and aim to 
have their stock weigh about 5^^ pounds at that age. To do 
this requires that the animals be kept in' small hutches, where 
they can have but little exercise, and that they be fed heavily 
from the time they are weaned. Under this treatment they 
grow very rapidly and are really superior for the table. 

MARKET RETURNS 

It is not easy to state what a breeder should realize for mar- 
ket rabbits. Aiuch depends on local conditions, and especially 
upon the familiarity of the public with the excellence of hutch 
rabbits for the table. If the animals are new to a market, a 
demand for them will have to be built up, but as a rule they 
w ill soon become popular. Better prices can usually be had by 



50 



the; rabbit 



selling directly to the consumer, thus saving the middlemen s 
profit One may make arrangements to deliver regularly or 
periodically to hotels and restaurants, but often a poultry dealer 
will agree to take a certain quantity at regular intervals. A 
breeder of Belgian hares near a military post in Virginia in- 
forms the writer that he finds ready sale for all he can spare at 
20 cents a pound, dressed. In England, where rabbits are almost 
as common in the markets as fowls, the prices paid by poulterers 
for the carcasses average 5d. to 6d. (10 to 12 cents) per pound. 
If as much can be had for them here the rearing of rabbits 
should be about as profitable as growing poultry for thenable. 
If members of the familv look after the rabbits, so that there 
is no outlay for labor, and if the hutches are built at home, the 
cost of rearing may be greatly reduced and much of the income 
will be net gain. While it must be admitted that rabbits re- 
quire more care than is usually given to poultry on our farms, 
their management has the advantage that it is more interesting, 
especiall)' to the younger members of the family. 

DISPOSING OF SURPLUS 

After selecting the best stock for breeding purposes it is well 
to dispose of the remainder as rapidly as conditions warrant. If 
those to be sold are to be marketed alive, all that Is needed^ to 
crate them properly and forward them to their destination. 1 his 
is the better plan in hot weather, as the carcasses do not keep 
well. If carcasses are to be delivered the methods of killing 
and packing are important considerations. 

KILLING 

There are two excellent wavs of killing the animals. The 
easier and probably the more humane is to dislocate the neck. 
Almost all gamekeepers know this method and can quickly show 
the novice how it is done, but probably a description will be 
understood. Take the two hind legs of the rabbit firmly in the 
left bind, place the thumb of the right hand just behind the 



THE RABBIT 51 

ears where the neck joins the skull, the palm resting on the left 
side of the face and the fingers holding firmly under the jaws. 
Then stretch out the animal quickly and with force, pressing 
in the right thumb and b'^nding the head backward. The dis- 
location will be distinctly felt. While this method requires con- 
siderable strength, when the knack of it is learned it entails less 
suffering than any other. Another excellent way of killing is 
to hold the rabbit up in the left hand, as in the first method, 
and then to strike a sharp blow on the back of the head with a 
round stick, stunning the animal. As soon as the neck is dis- 
located or the rabbit stunn'ed the jugular vein should be cut with 
a sharp knife and the animal hung head downward to bleed. 

DRESSING 

l^he next step in preparing a carcass for market is to remove 
the paunch and entrails, as their presence would soon taint the 
meat. With a sharp-pointed knife make a longitudinal cut down 
the middle of the belly, dividing the skin and the thin abdomen 
walls, but being careful not to cut the intestines. Turn out the 
paunch and the intestines, but leave the lungs, liver, heart and 
kidneys in place. Next make a slit between the large tendon 
and the bone of one hind leg and slip the other leg through the 
cut, so that the carcass may be readily hung up. It should hang 
long enough to stiffen before being packed. 

PACKING 

For packing the rabbits for market a basket or hamper of the 
ordinary shape and having movable flat slatted trays to enable 
one to pack the carcasses in separate layers is recommended. 
Such a hamper permits free circulation of the air not only on 
the edge but also throughout the package, and the carcasses 
packed this way reach their destination in an attractive state in- 
stead of the messy condition so often seen in the wild rabbits 
marketed in America. 



52 THE RABBIT 

RABBIT SKINS 

An enormous trade in rabbit skins is carried on abroad. 
Throughout Europe practically all the skins of marketed rab- 
bits are saved. The number produced in Great Britain and 
Ireland is estimated at about 30,000,000 annually; while, ac- 
cording to the English trade returns for 1910, there were im- 
ported during that year undressed rabbit skins to the number ot 
82 327,101. Of these over 11 millions came from Belgium, 
nearlv 4 mi'llions from France, upward of 43 millions from Aus- 
tralia and 7,379,960 from New Zealand. Most of the skins 
are sold in bales by weight and only the fur from them is util- 
ized in making felts and other cloths. The better skins, how- 
ever command good prices and are made up into garments in 
imitation of more costly furs. Skins of arctic hares and white 
rabbits are used to imitate ermine and arctic fox. Skins of An^ 
gora a-nd silver grav rabbits sometimes sell for a shilling or more 
each Belgian hare skins are usually dyed to imitate black fox 
or the so-called "black lynx." They are worth several cents 
each when untorn. 



AILMENTS OF RABBITS 

If properly cared for, rabbits are remarkably free from dis- 
eases. The more common ailments result from insanitary sur- 
roundings, lack of care in feeding, and improper ventilation. 
The hutches should be frequently cleaned and fresh sawdust or 
other fine litter used to take up liquids, so that the hutches do 
not become foul. Such ailments as mange, scurf, surfeit, and 
the disease of the eves known as ophthalmia are due usually to 
foul hutches. Cold snuffles and the like result from improper 
ventilation, sudden draft of cold air in overheated buildings, and 
similar causes. The disorders of the digestive orgms come from 
feeding young rabbits too freely of wet and juicy green foods 
or from" too radicallv changing their diet. Most diseases are 



run RABBIT 53 

preventable, and if the cause is understood, remedies will sug- 
gest themselves. For pot belly, constipation, and like ailments, 
exercise is the best remedy. If constipation continues, a diet of 
soft foods or a little castor oil usually gives relief. For diarrhea 
a little dry barley meal is good, and sometimes powdered acorns 
in skim milk are an effective remedy. 

Incrustations known as ear canker, and accumulations of ear 
wax may be cured by mechanically removing the incrustations 
with the aid of lukewarm water, and then washing with a soft 
sponge and applying powdered boracic acid. The animal should 
be held by an assistant. The treatment often requires repeated 
daily application. 

The most serious disease known among hutch rabbits in Amer- 
ica is coccidiosis. It is caused by internal parasites, and when 
present in the rabbitry kills many young rabbits. Extreme cau- 
tion is needed to prevent its introduction, and new stock ob- 
tained should for a time be kept isolated from the regular 
hutches. Keeping the hutches in stacks helps to spread the In- 
fection. Absolute cleanliness may do much to prevent the dis- 
ease. Whenever a number of the young rabbits under good care 
assume a pot-bellied appearance, particularly where it is accom- 
panied by symptoms of cold and snuffles, there is reason to sus- 
pect that old and apparently healthy animals may be afflicted 
with chronic coccidiosis and are expelling coccidia from their 
bodies. Isolation of the affected hutch and its occupants, to- 
gether with disinfection, are the first steps to be taken while the 
exact nature of the trouble is being determined. 

If serious diseases affect his stock, the amateur will find it 
advantageous to obtain a standard treatise on the management 
of rabbits. This will contain detailed instruction for the treat- 
ment of the more common ailments. As the business of rearing 
rabbits is carried on much more extensively in England than in 
America, the best hand-books are published abroad. They may 
be obtained through any bookseller. 



54 THB RABBIT 

CONCLUSION 

While not affording large profits, the business of raising rab- 
bits in a small way may be made an interesting as well as a rea- 
sonably remunerative adjunct to other pursuits. It is adapted 
to small village places, as well as to farms, and under careful 
management the returns from it are likely to increase as one 
gains experience. Under favorable circumstances it is capable 
of expansion into a serious vocation. The presence of rabbits in 
inclosures on the farm or on village premises furnishes oppor- 
tunity for an agreeable change in the family diet, a fact that is 
of considerable importance when ordinary meats are high priced, 
or in regions where they are difficult to obtain. 




New Zealand Red Rabbits 

BY C. P. GILMORE. 

ITH the steady and almost prohibitive increase in the 
cost of meat one of two means of escaping is offered us ; 
either to forego meat altogether or use it rarely as a 
luxury, or develop some other source of supply. Man 
belongs to the meat eating family; this is indicated by his teeth 
and his digestive organs. Meat is is a condensed form of food 
and a smaller amount of it will supply the needs of the body than 
will the average forms of vegetables. Therefore the probability 
is that to satisfy his craving for meat food, he will take the al- 
ternative and turn to some other source of meat supply than that 
offered in cattle and hogs, and this source will be found in chick- 
ens and rabbits, and especially rabbits. 

Indications are very strong in this direction already. Never 
since the insane Belgian hare craze which swept over this country 
some twenty years ago has there been so great an interest mani- 
fested in rabbits as at the present time. Hundreds have taken 
up the culture of rabbits as a sole occupation and are making 
good. There are three important branches at present, and in the 
near future there will be four. They are : Market breeding, pri- 
vate dressed rabbit trade, home consumption, and the fourth will 
be the fur. 

The Belgian hare and the Flemish Giant have been the lead- 
ing varieties from a commercial standpoint ; but there is another 
rabbit that is at present commanding the attention of the rabbit 
breeders of this country, and that is the New Zealand Red. 
This breed, it is believed, was imported into this state (Califor- 
nia) in 1906, but they have been so greatly improved by the 
California fanciers during the past four years that one wonders 
if it were possible. 



56 



THE RABBIT 



At the present time they are the leading variety on the Pacific 
Coast, this fact being due to their splendid qualities more than 
any special advertising, for it was only last year that we organ- 
ized the National New Zealand Red Club, which is giving the 
breed widespread publicity. At the Los Angeles show, January, 
1915, there were over 100 on exhibition, almost doubling the next 
class beneath them. Los Angeles, as you must know, is one of 




T^^ 



New Zealand Keel Rabbits, 1, 2 and 8 months of age. Gilmore's Rabbit Farm. 

the largest rabbit markets in America, and in this county you 
will probably find more successful market breeders than in any 
other one county in the country, these breeders nearly all breed- 
ing the New Zealand Red. Why? Here are some of the rea- 
sons: First, they breed true to color. Second, they mature rap- 
idly, making fine fryers at from seven to ten weeks. Third, th^ 
does are "splendid mothers. Fourth, they are medium boned and 
at eight or nine weeks you have a plump fry instead of a large 
bone and lean fry. Fifth, with few exceptions the bucks can 



TITK RABBIT 57 

be raised together until they are seven months old and will not 
fight; this means a big item in the saving of hutch space as well 
as extra work. Sixth, as exhibition rabbits they are unequaled. 
There is a fascination about their rich, reddish buf^ color that 
appeals to the eye of the true fancier, and the longer one breeds 
them the more fascinating they become. In the show room thev 




A Row of Hutches. Gilmore's Rabbit Farm. 

attract a great deal of attention from the uninterested public 
which in many cases results in making fanciers. 

For the past two years the demand for first-class New Zealand 
breeding stock has been splendid, and as time goes on this de- 
mand keeps growing. Every breeder of New Zealands will tell 
you that business is good. 

Santa Barbara, Calif. 



D 



The Black Siberian Hare 

R. H. COWAN. 

HE Black Siberian hare is the latest addition to the va- 
rious varieties of rabbits or hares. 

All admirers of this nevv^ly found breed claim that 
it is going to take the place of the wild fur-bearing 
animals, w^hich are fast becoming extinct, and that its fur will 
fill a gap between the very expensive Black Fox skin and the 
cheaper furs, such as those of the common rabbit, the muskrat, 
etc. 

The fur of the Black Siberian hare can be produced at a very 
low cost, and careful breeding will bring it to a high state of 
perfection. Sufficient proof for this statement is found in the 
colors and shapes to which pigeons, fowl and other animals have 
been bred. 

The advantage of breeding to perfection in this animal is 
greater than in almost any other, as two generations can be 
produced in a single year, because they breed very young. Thus, 
by breeding only from animals selected for the quality of their 
fur, perfection can soon be reached. 

The Black Siberian Hare is indigenous to Siberia. The 
animal therefore requires a thick, tough pelt, and close warm 
fur to protect it from the cold of its native country. In fact, 
its skin is as thick as that of muskrat, mink or marten, and its 
fur is a rich glossy black. Sometimes, however, a silver gray 
will appear. 

' As the Black Siberian comes from a country that has a de- 
cided summer and winter, he does not continue changing his 
coat all through the summer, and partly so through the winter, 
as do rabbits and hares bred for numerous generations in mild 



THE RABBIT 59 

climates. In the latter case the skin of the rabbit or hare is 
almost useless. 

The Black Siberian Hare, like other good fur-bearing ani- 
mals, has a light summer coat. This he changes in the fall for 
a thick, black winter coat (sometimes silver gray). The skin 
then is in season and is very valuable, whether black or silver 
gray. 

This Black Siberian Hare is of enormous size, maturing so 
rapidly that at six months a good specimen will weigh ten 
pounds. The flesh is delicious, being between the flavor of 
chicken and that of spring lamb. This animal is also very 
hardy. It can stand the severest winter without any protec- 
tion from cold. It will breed as freely as common rabbits and 
its young grow much faster, being at three months old the size 
of a full grown Belgian hare. They are more sprightly and 
active than a common rabbit, can jump five feet high and there- 
fore require a high fence to enclose them. 

In appearance these hares are long, round in the body, and 
quite tall. They stand more upright than the common rabbit, 
being more deer-like, especially when running. 

In color they resemble the Black Fox; the great majority are 
black, but occasionally a handsome silver gray appears, as is 
also the case among Black Foxes. 

At present the Black Siberian Hare is very rare in America. 
Only a few pairs have as yet been imported to North America. 
They are not even numerous in Siberia, being found wild only 
in a few places and those in dense swamps where the animal has 
no protection from beasts of prey. This last fact prevents them 
from becoming numerous. Thus it is evident that they have 
not been allowed to increase fast, even though their reproduc- 
tive power is so great when they are protected from their 
enemies. 

One of the Black Fox fur companies has imported a few of 
these Black Siberian Hares with the idea of breeding them in 
conjunction with Black Foxes. They hope to utilize the flesh 



60 THE RABBIT 

of the hare to feed the foxes, and at the same time receive a 
handsome profit from the skins. Let us now compare the Black 
Siberian Hare with the Black Fox. 

The Black Siberian Hare is as large if not larger than the 
Black Fox. The Black Fox is a carnivorous animal and each 
one eats about twenty-five dollars ($25.00) worth of meat in 
a year. The Black Siberian Hare, being a herbiverous animal, 
can be fed for a year at a cost of eighty cents (80c). 

The Black Fox is a monogamist and a male must be kept for 
every female. Even then they sometimes fail to mate. The 
Black Siberian Hare, however, is a polygamist and one male 
will do twenty or more females. 

The Black Fox breeds but once a year, and even this once is 
very uncertain. The Black Siberian Hare, with good manage- 
ment will breed almost every month in the year and in each 
batch there are more young than in the one batch of the Black 
Fox. 

Therefore it can readily be seen that although the fur of this 
hare is not so valuable as that of the Black Fox, still, breeding 
the Black Siberian Hare for its fur gives the owner far more 
satisfaction and has many advantages over breeding Black Foxes. 

Besides, all thinking people now realize that the vast prairies 
of the Northwest, that pastured thoustinds of cattle and sheen 
free of cost to their owners, have been claimed by human set- 
tlers and used for other purposes. This has raised the price of 
beef and mutton until now they are almost beyond the reach 
of even the well-to-do people, and they are still soaring in price. 
But this problem must be solved, because people accustomed to 
eating meat cannot exist without it. Here, then, is a substitute 
for both cheap meat and cheap fur, namely, the Black Siberian 
Hare. 

Hamilton, Ont., Canada. 



THE RABIUT 61 



A Hobby For the Ladies 

Mrs. B. F. Wilcoxon. 



HE prevalent discontent of women on the farni, and 
the wholesale rush of our young people to the cities, 
is one of the greatest social problems of the age. It 
is necessary for a woman to have a hobby, or an inter- 
est in life. The great trouble wnth women in rural districts is 
that they are mentally asleep, and nothing short of a hobby will 
bring out the best there is in them. 

I often wonder why more boys, girls and women do not 
take up the breeding of Belgian hares. I know very few boys 
and girls who keep and breed rabbits. I cannot do better than 
hammer at this subject as a means of earning money at home. 
Why not interest the ladies in the rabbit-breeding business? It 
is no use advising the ladies to go in for breeding rabbits unless 
there is a good chance of their being able to earn something in 
return. A short time ago, while visiting rabbit breeders in Den- 
ver, I came across a rabbitry of some five hundred numbers ; the 
business was carried on by a woman as a means of earning a 
living. 

"Oaks from little acorns grow." 

Fanciers achieve great things from modest beginnings. We 
are often told by the narrow-minded individuals that one has 
to be "in the swnm" to succeed. But hundreds of beginners have 
come to the front at a rapid rate. The Belgian hare offers "as 
rosy prospects as does any other variety." It has been referred 
to as the "Business" rabbit of the fancy. Many fanciers have 
found the breeding of Belgian hares a paying hobby. Many are 
making quite a sum of money every year from their rabbits; 
some even paying their house rent and adding to their income 
from the profits on rabbits. Last winter when I could not raise 
chickens I raised rabbits. Eat some Belgian hare meat and you 
will try to raise enough for your own table at least. They make 
fine pets for children. Every boy loves rabbits. Lots and lots 
of boys never know the pleasure of having some rabbits of their 



62 the; rabbit 

own to care for. If you want to start your boy into a business 
get him a pair of rabbits and watch him enjoy them. They in- 
crease like compound interest. Does can be bred six or eight 
times a year. The hare can be raised to five months of age for 
three cents per pound. 

The meat at the shops sells for 20 to 25 cents per pound. In 
Denver, Colo., there is as much rabbit meat used as chickens. 
The body is nearly all meat, which is greatly in their favor. Not 
half of the meat side of the Belgian industry has been told, nor 
can it be at present. 

A hobby that will pay its way is one to be valued. 

Hobbies often become a business even though they may not 
become the one business in life. A man who manufactures 
every-day articles long since took up the breeding of Jersey 
cows purely as a hobby. What was the result? He began ex- 
hibiting, and to-day there is as great a demand for his Jersey 
cows as there is for the product of his business. The man's 
motto in business is: "One quality — the best," and his make is 
superior that to think of the article is to think of his name. That 
principle he has carried into his hobby, and made it as great a 
success as his business. 

The rabbit shows held in. Leipzig are the largest in the 
world. The last show there was an entrance of over 2,800 rab- 
bits. The rabbit breeding industry in Germany has developed 
enormously the last fifteen years. The demand has also devel- 
oped so rapidly that rabbit meat has to be imported from other 
countries. 

France breeds and consumes more rabbits than any other 
country in the world. One year over eighty million rabbits were 
sold in the markets of France. Many for years find their hobby 
and relaxation from the cares of business in the breeding of rab- 
bits for exhibition. May not others be able to find their hobby 
in breeding rabbits for the market? 

We have to-day many large poultry farms scattered up and 
down the country, some are run entirely for the production of 
high-class exhibition stock ; we also have farms that never touch 



THE RABBIT 63 

the exhibition side, but stick closely to utility matters. Is it not 
possible to have the same state of things prevailing in regard to 
rabbit keeping? England prides herself on her great rabbit 
shows. 

The chief points in starting in Belgians are: First, hutches 
that are free from dampness; second, food the very best grain, 
all kinds of green food, and all kinds of roots; third, the stock; 
well, the best are the best, so get one or two as good as you pos- 
sibly can in preference to several inferior ones. The best stait 
is a doe in kindle or a pair. Don't start with too many at first ; 
learn and then increase your number. There is an art in every 
trade, including breeding rabbits. According to some, money 
rolls in the fancy; but, well, some people's geese are "swans." 

The other day I received a letter from a lady who got the 
Belgian hare fever who took the wrong turn; but, of course, 
experience has taught her much. I know she does not mind my 
telling, because it should act as a help to those about to start. 
She writes: 

"When I come to look on the past and study where my 
failings have been, I have not far to look. I started in what I 
now see was a foolish fashion. I got one from here and one 
from there; this out of a selling class and that out of a prize 
winning class— all good rabbits as far as markings were con- 
cerned, but of their pedigree! did not know anything. What 
a mess of pottage' to be seen and the dish was my downfall. 
You have to live and learn, and, to my cost, in both time, labor 
and money I found out it was no use of trying to breed from 
such an assortment. I got to the end of the lane at last and 
then went to a reliable breeder. I laid down my case, ac- 
knowledged my sin, as it were, and since that time I have no 
reason to regret the latter policy." 

My friend's acknowledgment is quite sensible; there is no 
doubt that obtaining stock from all different parts of the com- 
pass is a wrong policy to pursue. The old proverb, "As ye sow- 
so shall ye reap," comes forcibly into the limelight. 

I believe in the theory that there is more room at the top 



64 



THE RABBIT 



of the ladder than at the bottom. Certainly there are a greater 
number struggling at the bottom ; yes, a great number who never 
get one bit higher. If you have the true fancier's spirit you will 
not begrudge the time of waiting, whilst you will be all the 
better for it. "Patience is a virtue," we are told, and it is 
doubly so with the fancier who is blessed with a good dose of it. 
Oh, never mind, "Little drops of water, little grains of sand." 
No one can afford to neglect any trifle, however minute or ap- 
parently insignificant, that goes for improvement; attend to 
these apparently trifles and success will follow. The fancier 
who says, "Oh, never mind, that's too much trouble," will never 
succeed. 

Nothing thrives unless it is comfortable, can be taken as a 
safe maxim. Even a pig, the dirtiest of all animals, likes a 
comfortable bed ; yes, and thrives on it. To provide stock with 
a comfortable bed is true economy. 

VALUED MORE THAN MONEY. 

I quote the following for the reason that it illustrates the 
fascination that the fancy has for its owners. A gentleman went 
to a large fancy show to purchase a buck to mate with a well 
bred doe he possessed. He bought a winning buck, paying a 
good price for him. A few nights afterwards the door of his 
hutch was accidentally left open, a dog got in and killed the 
V. e'l bred buck referred to. Of a speculative turn of mind the 
owner has won and lost vast sums of money, but his closest 
friends say that they never saw anything worry him like the loss 
of this particular rabbit. "I have seen him lose a thousand dol- 
lars in one afternoon, and it made no perceptible difference in 
his demeanor," said the friend, "but you should have seen him 
when the dog nabbed that rabbit. I never saw hiTti so mad." 

North Platte, Neb. 




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